Perched high above the Mirna River Valley in northern Istria, Motovun is one of Croatia’s most iconic medieval hilltop towns. Rising on a conical hill covered in vineyards and forests, Motovun enchants visitors with its stone walls, cobbled streets, and panoramic views that stretch across the Istrian countryside. For centuries, it has stood as a symbol of Istria’s cultural richness, culinary treasures, and natural beauty.
🏰 Motovun: A Town of Stone and History
Motovun’s skyline is marked by a Romanesque-Gothic bell tower with a toothed crown from the 13th century. Next to it stands the 17th-century Parish Church of St. Stephen, a landmark that dominates the central square. The square itself is home to the Romanesque Communal Palace, the largest secular building in medieval Istria. This palace, once a hub of public life, still carries the weight of history. Together, these monuments form the heart of Motovun, showing its role as a cultural and political center through the centuries.
Beneath the surface charm lies a history stretching back to prehistoric fortifications. In Roman times, this area was strategically important, and later Venetian rule left a deep mark on Motovun’s urban fabric. The noble families of Barbo and Polesini shaped much of its legacy, their influence visible in nearby churches and artistic treasures, including frescoes and graffiti in Glagolitic and Latin scripts. The town’s layered history continues to echo in every stone archway and weathered façade.
🌳 The Motovun Forest and Natural Riches
Below the town lies the Motovun Forest, a place wrapped in both myth and practicality. In medieval times, its timber was prized by the Republic of Venice for shipbuilding, feeding the expansion of the Venetian fleet. Today, the forest is world-famous as a habitat for truffles, particularly the prized white truffle. Truffle hunting tours and seasonal festivals in nearby Livade offer visitors the chance to experience this culinary tradition firsthand.
The surrounding hills are covered in vineyards and olive groves. Local wines such as Teran and Malvazija pair perfectly with truffle-infused dishes, cured meats, and artisan cheeses. Motovun thus sits at the intersection of natural abundance and gastronomic excellence, making it a favorite stop for food lovers.
🎬 A Cultural Legacy
For more than two decades, Motovun was synonymous with the Motovun Film Festival, a celebration of independent and international cinema held annually since 1999. The festival brought global attention and turned the town into a summer hub for cinephiles. However, in 2023, the festival relocated to Gorski Kotar under the new name Cinehill. While screenings no longer light up Motovun’s squares, the festival’s spirit remains tied to the town, a reminder of its place in Croatia’s modern cultural history.
🌄 Exploring Motovun Today
Walking through Motovun feels like stepping back in time. The town walls od Motovun are well-preserved and open for visitors. From them, you see the Mirna Valley, vineyards, and distant hilltop towns. Inside, narrow alleys lead to quiet squares and small artisan shops. Family-run konobas serve traditional Istrian food, often paired with local wine.
The Hotel Kaštel, once the palace of the Polesini family, offers a stay within the historic center, combining old-world atmosphere with modern comfort. Beyond the town itself, hiking and cycling trails weave through the countryside, inviting visitors to explore forests, vineyards, and villages at a slower pace. Autumn brings Truffle Days in Livade, a festival celebrating Istria’s culinary jewel with tastings, markets, and demonstrations.
📝 My Personal Note
Walking through Motovun felt like stepping into a living storybook. The climb along cobbled streets, the view from its ancient walls, and the quiet of the surrounding vineyards all carried a sense of timeless wonder.
Every corner revealed another layer of its spirit—stone arches whispering history, the aroma of truffles drifting from kitchens, and the vast Mirna Valley unfolding beneath the sky. It wasn’t just a visit. I felt like becoming part of a narrative that has lasted for centuries.
👉 Your Next Step
Want to experience more of Istria’s magic? Combine your visit to Motovun with nearby hilltop towns like Grožnjan or Oprtalj. Explore our full Things to Do in Croatia guide for hidden gems, local flavors, and travel tips that will make your journey unforgettable.
Written with stone beneath our feet and vineyards in our hearts,
– Your CTC Crew 🍇
